CAN YOU IMAGINE A LIFE – SENTENCED TO EATING THIS TYPE OF FOOD?

You can QUICKLY and EASILY learn to make food that dogs LOVE and is EXTREMELY GOOD for them – while you SAVE Hundreds per dog – in the FIRST YEAR ALONE!?

Home dog health food (especially RAW) is not hard at all – SMART greyhound racers and dog breeders have been doing this for CENTURIES: because of the HUGE SAVINGS, & better HEALTH, BREEDING & RACING performance to boot! And these guys often have dozens of dogs!

Maximise your dog’s life and health; with healthy home made food -

Smarter – and why most Greyhound racers and Dog Breeders (Pro’s) do this – plus it’s 100% GUARANTEED – Click Here!

Still got some questions? Contact me – steve@dogloverstoolbox.com

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My answer is – yes! They will eat the same food if not given choice; but given choice – this particular breed will also eat fruits and raw or cooked vegetables too!

Now there are a few articles floating around on the web, stating that ALL dogs are strictly carnivores (meat eaters); but I strongly disagree! They go off-track because they base their argument on the dogs teeth, stating that since they have pointed canine teeth (at the front) they must be carniverous. But there are many examples of animals (like some bears and apes) that have similar type front teeth that are totally vegetarian?

So I know it’s just not true, from this evidence and from watching our own dogs eat apricots and apples that have fallen off of our trees. One of our own girls will even eat mandarin and banana (she prefers cooked banana). All dogs are selective omnivores – in other words they will select what they want to eat from a range of foods – given the choice. Some are just fussier than others and Bull Terriers – like our Staffordshire Bull Terriers – in general – are not fussy at all!

But there’s the key – if you don’t give your Staffordshire Bull Terrier a choice, he or she is stuck with what you offer? We always advise a homemade meal – that way you can add variety, you know what’s in the food and the dog gets a good range of nutrients from various sources.

If you are interested in trying a Homemade Bull Terrier diet, I can highly recommend this product.

My answer is – yes! They will eat the same food if not given choice; but given choice – this particular breed will also eat fruits and raw or cooked vegetables too!

Now there are a few articles floating around on the web, stating that ALL dogs are strictly carnivores (meat eaters); but I strongly disagree! And they go off-track because they base their argument on the dogs teeth, stating that since they have pointed canine teeth (at the front) they must be carniverous. But there are many examples of animals (like some bears and apes) that have similar type front teeth that are totally vegetarian?

So I know it’s just not true, from this evidence and from watching our own dogs eat apricots and apples that have fallen off of our trees. One of our own girls will even eat mandarin and banana (she prefers cooked banana). All dogs are selective omnivores – in other words they will select what they want to eat from a range of foods – given the choice. Some are just fussier than others and Bull Terriers – like our Staffordshire Bull Terriers – in general – are not fussy at all!

But there’s the key – if you don’t give your Bull Terrier a choice, he’s stuck with what you offer? We always advise a homemade meal – that way you can add variety, you know what’s in the food and the dog gets a good range of nutrients from various sources.

If you are interested in trying a Homemade Bull Terrier diet, I can highly recommend this product.

If you think it will make you lots of money, I would advise that you are likely to be in for a whole lot of disappointments! It’s hard work, there are real gut wrenching issues including deaths of bitches and pups; as well as quite considerable veterinary bills to grapple with! So – if you ARE going at it for the $$$ please reconsider?

But assuming that you have thought this through fully; we would advise that your bitch be on at least her 2nd season – because her uterus is not fully ready for pregnancy and puppies prior to that. Sure she can get pregnant – but your chance of trouble increases dramatically!

So – she’s 2nd season (or later), and you’ve noticed all of the things we mentioned here, now you’ll be wanting to observe her vaginal discharge closely. Here are a couple of myths:

Wait until bleeding stops. NO – TOO LATE – you have usually missed the action at this stage!

You CAN count on the following:

Bitch’s vulva (yes you’ll have to touch it) will go from firm (prior to ovulation), then very loose & stretchy (ovulation)!

Bright red discharge PRIOR to bitch readiness for mating

OK – now if after all of that you’re still unsure – you can take your bitch to the Vet for some blood tests to determine if she’s ready. They can be a little expensive, but if that’s no issue it will take the uncertainty of it away for you. However the above methods are tried n true – they can and do work for us and breeders worldwide.

Finally – once you know that your bitch is ready you can take her to your chosen stud and mate her every 2nd day for 2 or 3 matings.

Some AI (Artificial Insemination) is done for various reasons, often due to aggressive bitches or stud dogs that have no clue, even some canine diseases – but that’s probably more detail than is needed here.

If natural breeding – the dogs need to join (tie) and should be carefully held in place so that no damage is done to bitch or dog – by pulling away in panic or just too early. Even though dogs have done this for thousands of years they can and do harm themselves seriously if left alone – so experienced breeders (even novices) should always remain with the two dogs through the process.

They need to join (tie) and should be carefully held in place so that no damage is done to bitch or dog – by pulling away in panic or just too early. Even though dogs have done this for thousands of years they can and do harm themselves seriously if left alone – so experienced breeders (even novices) should always remain with the two dogs through the process.

Steve

If you’re not a registered breeder, you will really want to be careful in this matter – there’s a lot of time committment required and it can be expensive; not to mention that finding homes for unwanted puppies is hard work.

It’s important then that you’re on your toes – preventing this will be a bit of a challenge, depending on your pattern of work, the security of your property (from unwanted mates), and even if the bitch spends most of her time alone?

As a general guide – in the first 7 days of her season she’s not really interested in mating (though males will still be interested in her) – but the next 14 days or so ( add about 3 days extra to be certain) are the real risk period!

Do NOT underestimate the desire of neighbouring dogs to sniff her out (literally) – or her desire to go get mated! You MUST be vigilant – we’ve heard stories of people with 6 foot fences coming home to four males in the yard – or out walking with their hounds and them getting into trouble, one case of a person stopped at the traffic lights suddenly looking down to find a male has tied with their bitch!

One point – since it would be cruel to not walk your bitch for 3 weeks – we would highly recommend that, you consider making or buying a pair of Chastity Britches (see here). If you don’t do that you may have to house her in an appropriate kennel (with a run) – or even send her to a Boarding Kennel for that period.

My wife spends all of her time with our dogs – so its only rarely that they are left unattended. If it is required she will crate them briefly – which protects all of them from escape or theft – and any bitch in season.

Crated Bitch in season - to prevent unwanted matings

But lets assume that after all of your efforts though – you failed, it happened to us once – our bitch had only just finished with her previous litter and we did not want another so soon afterwards!

There IS a medical way out – and without any major side effects! The bitch can be given 2 x injections of Aglepristone 24 hours apart, 0-21 days after mating. As I understand it, this acts on the sperm to make the environment unfavourable – or if it has already bound with the egg, causes it to come away from the placenta – ending the pregnancy.

This should be a last line of defence though, prevention is better than cure – keep your bitch safe, or better still if no breeding is required or wanted; get her desexed ASAP.

Steve

Canine Cancer – a subject I would dread to have to come to terms with – but since we have five dogs, I guess we have five times more risk of facing?

I’m not going to waffle on at great length in this email, except to say that I was so suitably impressed with the look and feel of a product I came across that I bought it myself – take a look for yourself at the Dog Cancer Survival Guide & Video series.

I’m still impressed with what Dr Demian Dressler has to offer (even if his name does sound like one off an afternoon TV drama), it’s a 299 page Ebook and a 60 minute video of a cancer consult as well as some other offers. I was impressed enough by the book and video, to feel that the relatively modest fee was warranted, but I’ll let you decide. We’ve heard of a lady who’s dog was given 6 months to live and adopted this system and now he’s still going strong almost 6 years down the track.

It’s backed by Clickbank and has Paypal hook-up. Click Here

Till next time.

Cheers

Steve

I’m sure that you’re aware that among those who really care about what their dogs eat; there’s much debate about whether we should cook the dogs food or whether we should just leave it raw?

There’s even a really successful and popular system called BARF (Bones and Raw Food) that focusses on Raw exclusively! This remarkable system developed by an Australian Dr Ian Billinghurst has a lot of dedicated followers who swear that BARF is the ONLY way to go – and I must admit it has some great advantages for the dog.

But it is not the only way to go – and a recent article found that the meat proteins were slightly more digestible in meat that had been cooked; compared to raw. It was only a slight difference though!

If you choose raw (our opinion) – leave OUT the big bones part and give the dogs something SAFER to chew on to clean their teeth. We’ve heard quite some stories where there has been either dog or owner errors; allowing a bone to cause issues with gut obstructions or worse!

But it makes sense to us that since wild dogs, foxes, dingoes, coyotes, wolves, jackals etc do not have portable stoves – they have been designed to eat raw food exclusively.

Notice that I did not say raw meat exclusively! That’s because are not true carnivores (meat eaters), they are selective omnivores; meaning they will eat a range of foods.

In the wild dogs actually range and forage for all types of food – and while a lot of that will be meat, from rabbits, possums, lizards and insects – some will also come from bush foods and wild fruit – even fruit from man made orchards and vines!

This is why recipes for home made dog food – and our Top Dog Easy Ultra supplement (see Ebay here) should all feature a wide range of natural food components to ensure proper nutrition.

If you are not already feeding your dog a natural diet (whether raw or cooked) I would suggest that you should try it – the quality difference in a natural real food diet can make real differences in your dogs health.

We used to cook all of our meals – but the workload for cooking for 5 dogs once per month was higher, particularly in summer – when the extra heat made it more of a chore. Now we alternate between cooked and raw ourselves – and our dogs love it!

We use exactly the same Top Dog Easy Ultra supplement that is featured in my Ebay store, so you know that it’s quality and exactly what we choose to feed our own special family – and believe me; we loves ‘em!

OK – that’s it from me this time – till next!

Cheers

Steve

More recently doctors have found that a component of some oils—fatty acids, play important roles in human health too, from treating skin conditions, like eczema, and dermatitis, to aiding in the prevention and treatment of depression, for the control of inflammation, and as a preventative for heart disease. It is clear that these oils are essential in maintaining human health.

Our knowledge of the benefits of these oils is now also being applied to pet health.

So – what are fatty acids?

Simply put they are specific types of polyunsaturated fats. The two main classes are omega-3 and omega-6.

Why do pets need fatty acids in their diet?

Animals can produce some, but not all of the fatty acids they need. What they cannot produce themselves, MUST be obtained through diet, hence the name essential fatty acids (or EFA).

But what is essential for one species, is not necessarily essential for another, e.g, the fatty acid, arachidonic acid is essential for cats but not for dogs.

In some diseases, the enzymes that convert fatty acids to another type may be deficient, or the animals ability to absorb fatty acids from the intestine may be reduced.

And pets with poor quality food—like much of the lower quality commercial food sold in stores —simply lack the essential fatty acids in their food to provide the basis from which to make the others!

Additionally—fatty acids, like many nutrients; are subject to destruction, particularly by overcooking, which can destroy them and also by oxidation — commonly called rancidity.

Because of these factors it has become essential to provide these essentials to your dog — to maintain optimum health!

Richard and Susan Pitcairn, had the following to say in their book Dr Pitcairns Complete Guide to Natural Health For Dogs and Cats —

“Without adequate quantities (of EFA) come many health problems, including significant skin eruptions, loss of hair, skin that won’t heal from wounds, liver and kidney degeneration, increase susceptibility to infections, heart and circulatory problems, weakness, retarded growth, spontaneous abortions, sterility, impairment of vision, loss of ability to learn, symptoms similar to arthritis, and more. We can see from this list that these nutritional components are aptly named essential fatty acids.” Dr Pitcairns Complete Guide to Natural Health For Dogs and Cats pg 55

Ratios

There has been some discussion over the ideal ratios of Omega 3 to Omega 6, currently the range is suggested at between 5:1—10:1 Omega 3:Omega 6. Suffice to say that all of the evidence would suggest that they should be added to the diet, if not occurring naturally.

Key Essentials

Now I don’t want to turn this into a complex chemistry lesson, but it is important to a degree that you understand the basics as far as these essentials are concerned;

Omega-3

Omega-3 fatty acids include:

* Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA)

* Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA)

* Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)

You will often hear them abbreviated down to ALA, EPA, DHA .

ALA can be converted into EPA, by your dog. EPA is the most essential of the omega-3 fatty acids, because it is a critical part of cell membranes or cell walls.

Omega-6

Omega-6 fatty acids include:

* Linoleic acid (LA)

* Gamma linolenic acid (GLA)

* Dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA)

* Arachidonic acid (AA)

Doglovers Oil — Recipe

To make a great oil mix follow this recipe:

500 ml Extra Virgin Olive Oil

125 ml Cod Liver or Fish Oil

125 ml Flax Seed Oil

250 ml Sunflower Oil

If you are in the USA or similar — the following is an approximate conversion of the above recipe!

17 ounces Extra Virgin Olive Oil

4.25 ounces Cod Liver or Fish Oil

4.25 ounces Flax Seed Oil

8.50 ounces Sunflower Oil

Mix all oils together in a large glass bottle and shake well. Store this and any remainder from the original bottles in the fridge.

Use one teaspoon for small dogs, two teaspoons for medium dogs and 3 to 4 teaspoons for large dogs — sprinkle over their food once or twice per day.

Steve

OK – perhaps you just bought your dog and he or she is a bit on the nose – or else you are just unsure of where he or she has been; so you want to give him a clean start? There are a couple of things to watch out for:

1. Human shampoo can harm dog skin
2. Be careful with water near the ears
3. Pre-heat the drying area
4. Use lukewarm – warm water only for bathing
5. Towel dry as much as possible
6. Allow the dog to dry before contact with cold outdoors

Human Shampoo

The pH of our shampoo is unsuited to dog skin. I have seen graphic pictures of dog skin badly burnt by human shampoo and it is likely that human conditioner would be similar. Always use a proper DOG shampoo and conditioner for bathing.

No Water Down The Ears

A dogs ears are designed for hearing so they are much larger than ours and funnel sound downwards; this means that any water you squirt or pour; can end up at the bottom of the ear canal. We have all seen the classic head shake that dogs do to get water out – but its always best to minimise the amount, by not allowing too much to run in that direction. You can wash out the inside of the ear with dampened (slightly) paper towel more effectively anyway.

Preheat Drying Area

It goes without saying that the dog will dry off faster in an area that is preheated. It also makes it more comfortable for you too – because you will likely be damp by the time you have finished. In our case if its cold weather we usually block off the door to the outside temporarily and preheat the family room.

Use Lukewarm/Warm Water Only

Test it – you need to make sure its not too hot – apart from the fact you could hurt your pooch; a bad experience on the first or subsequent washes will make future bathing a nightmare!

Rinse – Shampoo – Rinse – Shampoo – Conditioner – Rinse

You may want to purchase a rubber fitting that goes over the bath or trough tap (faucet) that becomes your flexible wash head. Note that the conditioner step can be left off if you purchase a Leave-in Conditioner.

Towel Dry As Much As Possible

Dogs love a massage! The towel dry part starts of the final groom by loosening fur as it dries; do it well and your dog will begin to look forward to bathing. If you have a short haired dog – skip straight to the Leave-in Conditioner step (we do this) – if its a Long Haired dog; you will need a quality brush to remove the longer loose fur and distribute the conditioner. The right type of brush will assist this – check with your pet store for a brush to suit – buy the best you can afford.

Check The Dog Over

Now is the time to trim softened nails (see elsewhere on my site), look for damage in those, look for any wounds or tender spots while drying and brushing etc.

Enjoy your clean smelling pal!

Steve

About seven years back, Alex our Australian Terrier/Silky Terrier X suddenly became ill. We found her; lying outside on the cold pavement, in the middle of winter – panting heavily! We were unsure just why she appeared to be so hot, but we knew something was seriously wrong!

A rush to the Vet revealed high blood sugar and the diagnosis of Pancreatitis. But there was hope – Diabetes or Pancreatitis IS NOT terminal!

Initially we were told though that it would be very difficult to manage her condition, that medication would be expensive and that there was still the likelihood that we would lose her! The general attitude of the Vet was that we should just have her put down – to this day, we are amazed at how cold and uncaring they were!

We did not give up on Alex! We committed to a simple routine – monitor her meal sizes and very importantly – fat in her diet ( plus her blood sugar from time to time) and give her insulin injections twice daily.

All Natural Home Made Dog Food - ready to eat

She survived another SEVEN YEARS (until 2009) – and we became quite experienced in managing this condition. Let me say, no matter what you are told – diabetes in dogs is not that hard to manage!

About the only difficulty we ever had, was once when we were out (with her) and very late getting home and therefore feeding her, her blood sugar dropped quite low. She started getting very lethargic and drowsy, we actually had to buy a piece of cake and feed her a bit, just to get her blood sugar levels up. But within 10-15 minutes, she was her usual self!

We attribute her long survival to a home made dog food diet; one that was low-fat and high protein – despite all of the doomy and gloomy predictions of our local vet at that time – she thrived!

You CAN, and WILL cope with canine diabetes, it’s very easy to do and your dog can have years added to its life! It will only take a few minutes and a few dollars per week, and you get to keep your dog.

Click Here!

You don’t have to lose your dog now – go ahead and try the simple combination of home made dog food and professional (but optimistic) veterinary care, I sincerely believe that you’ll be GLAD you did!

Steve